The Regency Wardrobe collection - research - The Mameluke Sleeve
"...Mamelukes are members of a former military caste originally composed of slaves from Turkey, that held the Egyptian throne from the mid thirteenth century to the early 1500s. They remained strong until 1811. Regency fashion took inspiration from Mameluke clothing..."
After 1808 Spanish ornament featured on robes and appeared as slashed areas and tiered sleeves. When sleeves covered the hand they were called à la mamelouk. Image examples here illustrate this extra long sleeve length.
The Napoleonic Wars meant that a soldier's uniform had high visibility and military style details featured on clothing for both sexes.
Frogging, braids, cords, velvet and other trims lent a topical jaunty dashing air to many a garment, especially outdoor wear.
Peasant influence from European dress was particularly applied to the name of coats, cloaks and mantles such as the Witzchoura redingote an empire cloak of Russian origin". - https://www.fashion-era.com/regency_fashion.htm
But this same design in sleeves seems also to have been known as the Marie sleeve (after Marie Antoinette) - sometimes referred to as the Juliet sleeve - it seems there is no final concensus as to whether there were differences between the Mameluke and Marie but for more on this debate please see: https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2010/04/22/mamaluke-or-marie-sleeves-on-regency-dresses/
Marie Antoinette in a Muslin Dress
Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun - 1783 National Gallery of Art - Washington DC (United States) Painting - oil on canvas
Regency Mamaluke sleeves
Costume parisien, dress with Juliet/ Marie/ Mameluke sleeves 1811
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne The Schofield Collection
White gown with Marie/Juliet/ mameluke sleeves. 1812 Costume parisien Costume parisien https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/48132289743958899/
This research was done as part of the process of designing The Regency Wardrobe collection.
The exhibition of The Regency Wardrobe collection will take place at Firle Place, in May 2021 as soon as the collection has been shown more images of all the pieces will be made visible on stephaniesmart.net
This project is being supported by:
Arts Council England, The Textile Society and Great Art