The Regency Wardrobe collection - research - The Mameluke Sleeve

https://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/explore/collection/work/50824/

See: https://military.wikia.org/wiki/Mamluk

 

"...Mamelukes are members of a former military caste originally composed of slaves from Turkey, that held the Egyptian throne from the mid thirteenth century to the early 1500s. They remained strong until 1811. Regency fashion took inspiration from Mameluke clothing..."

 

After 1808 Spanish ornament featured on robes and appeared as slashed areas and tiered sleeves. When sleeves covered the hand they were called à la mamelouk.  Image examples here illustrate this extra long sleeve length.

The Napoleonic Wars meant that a soldier's uniform had high visibility and military style details featured on clothing for both sexes.

Frogging, braids, cords, velvet and other trims lent a topical jaunty dashing air to many a garment, especially outdoor wear.

Peasant influence from European dress was particularly applied to the name of coats, cloaks and mantles such as the Witzchoura redingote an empire cloak of Russian origin".  - https://www.fashion-era.com/regency_fashion.htm

 

to see the image above and to learn more about Mameluke sleeves please see: https://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2010/04/22/mamaluke-or-marie-sleeves-on-regency-dresses/

 

 

 

Marie Antoinette in a Muslin Dress

Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun - 1783
National Gallery of Art - Washington DC (United States)
Painting - oil on canvas

please see: http://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/full.php?ID=67519#

 

 

 

Regency Mamaluke sleeves

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/48132289743958900/

 

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/48132289739737874/

Costume parisien, dress with Juliet/ Marie/ Mameluke sleeves 1811

please see: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/48132289740750629/

 

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/48132289741863902/

 

 

 https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/48132289743958906/

 

 

1817 England

National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne The Schofield Collection

Please see: http://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/explore/collection/work/50824/

 

 

 

White gown with Marie/Juliet/ mameluke sleeves. 1812 Costume parisien Costume parisien https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/48132289743958899/

 

 

 

For more about "the mysteries of sleeves and a few other arcane terms in Regency dress" I'd recommend this blog: http://sarahs-history-place.blogspot.com/2011/10/mysteries-of-sleeves-and-few-other.html?m=1

 

 

This research was done to the ends of designing The Regency Wardrobe collection.

The exhibition of The Regency Wardrobe collection has been postponed due to Coronavirus as soon as the collection has been shown more images of all the pieces will be made visible on stephaniesmart.net

 

This project is being supported by:

Arts Council England, The Textile Society and Great Art

 

 

 

 

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